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ETERS, PHOTULITMOGRAPHER. WASHINGTON D C' `JAMES TURNBULL OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.

MAKING BOOTS.

i Specification of Letters Patent No. 3,143, dated .Tune24, 1843.

`To all whom 2f `may concern.' y

Be it kno-wn that 1I, JAMES TURNBULL, of

the city of Philadelphia, in the State of Pennsylvania, Ahave invented` `certain new and useful `improvements in the apparatus for `and the .manner of manufacturing boots of various kinds,the legs `and uppers of which 'boots consist of a single piece` of leather, there being but one seam in each,

from whichcircumstance I denominate them the one-seamwboots; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full and exact l description thereof. y

resentsone of my one seam boots of the ordinary lkind,and No. 2, ashort, lor J ackson, boot, with oneseam, but cut open a short distance in front for the purpose of lacing.` f

No. `5, is what Icall the :blockingout pattern, which, lin the mans size,...is about twenty `one inches long, the other parts beingmade to the same scale.` rIliis pattern I make of two plates offmetalA, A, prefenringvzinc for that purpose. Fon No. `5,

on the size stick, which is thesmallest Inans size, `theltwo plates `of Inetalwill usually he in vContact with eachother along the `line A., A. B, B, B, are plates of metal riveted to one of theplatesA, andfurnished with pins that slide in the slots CQC "there being `small thumb screws, `as at a, a, by, which they may be held in any situation required. When drawn `from each otherl to the full extent they are then adapted to the blocking out of size No. '12, the precise distance being regulated by the measuring` strap. A second blocking-out pattern may be used for boys size, fand these will sufice for all purposes.

After the blocking out has been effected,

the legs and uppers are to be formed `on the crimping board in such manner as that the only seam shallibe up the back of the boot. No. l.his the crimping board, of which there `must be two `that is to say, one for rights and the other for lefts. The insteps and vtoes on these boards are to be made as much like the last in form as the nature of the case will admit. This crimping board is made in two parts. The part E is mortised, and slides on two iron strips F, F; it is also furnished with two stretching screws, G, G. When the leather is to be crimped, the footand shank should be first tacked in place, and then the back, from done before stretching it with the screws. It will facilitate the operation if a little tallow is rubbed upon the crimping boards, especially` when they are new.

After the crimping has been completed, the leather is to be cut out by what -I call the shifting-pattern, No. `3. This, like the blocking-out pattern, consists of two plates of metal, H, and I, one of them superimposed, and sliding upon the other. `The piece H, as shown in the drawing, is slid y 3 out so as to cut No. l2; Zi, b, are slots in In the accompanying drawing, No. 1, repl the plate I, within which slide pins attached to the plate I-I; J, J, are strips of `metal to strengthen the plate H, and sustain the sliding pins and set screws. When the plate H, is slid `back as far as it will go on the plate I, it stands in the position for cutting lives. The front line c, c, of the plate H, then coincides with the front line of the plate I. `'Ihisposition ofthe plate H, is shown in No. 3, viz., which is a view of the reverse side of the cutting-out pattern. In this position, also, the bottom line CZ, CZ, of No. 3, coincides with the linee, e, of the plate I, saidplate being, in fact, the pat- 'tern for lives, supposing the plate H, to `loe removed from it. In cutting out to any size the pattern is laid upon the crimped leg, so that the front line o, c, coincides with it, and the knife is run along the pattern at the back and top. The lining for `the leg may be "cut in the same mannerin one piece, and may be joined either at the back, or front. It may l top to bottom; all which should be neatlyl be inserted either before or after the backing up. The straps are to be placed as in other boots, that is `where the seams `are ordinarily made.

.I` have made an improvement, likewise, in the shanks of boots.

plate, but these are both objectionable; the former on account of their weight and unyielding nature, and the latter frequently break. I have improve-d this part by the use of shanks of hickory, white-oak, or other tough wood. One of these shanks is shown at f, f, `in Fig. 8, and it is shown in place on the insole in Fig. 7. In forming these shanks,I take splints of wood of the proper width, and about a fourth of an inch in thickness, and by means of what I denominate a spring block, I bend them into the I am aware thatboots have been made with an inflexible shank of Q metal, and also ,with shanks of elastic steel proper form. This spring block is shown at No. G. One of this pair of blocks has the form of the bottom of a. last, and the other is hollowed to correspo-nd thereto.' The splint of wood is steamed, or put into boiling water, and is pressed into form while hot, and kept in the mold until dry. It is then to be trimmed at the edges, to bring it to the proper form, and is pared down so as to be quite thin along its sides; when so prepared, it is ready to be applied on to the insole.

In Fig. 7, the lines g, g, g, represent a lightly twisted Wag-end, which passes across the elastic wooden shank, being carried back and forth through the insole stitching. The end being lightly twisted is readily rubbed down fiat. This wooden shank is free from all the objections found against those heretofore used.

My next improvement consists in the providing of pantaloon straps, which are attached to the boots in such manner as not to require them to pass under the foot, by which means such straps are not liable to the inconvenience heretofore experienced. In Fig. 1, K, K, is a piece of leather which constitutes the strap, there being one such on each side of the boot. These straps are sewed in at their lower edges with the welts, or otherwise, and the'pant-aloons are provided with hooks, or with buttons, which are to be inserted into the holes in the top edge of the straps; such a strap is shown separately at No. 10.

My last improvement consists in the employment of a circular revolving heel, by means of which the boot is made to wear much more regularly on the bottom than heretofore. These heels consist of a proper number of lifts of leather to give the required height, and of one ork two circular platesof brass, or other metal. These heels I usually fasten by means of a screw, or of a spur, so as to prevent their revolving, on the removing of which screw they may be turned around to the required distance, and again confined in place. They may, however, lbe made without the addition of a tightening screw. Nos. 11, to 16, represent metallic plates, which are all intended for the same use although they vary somewhat in form. Fig. 17, is a vertical section through the middle of the heel of a boot, showing two brass plates, with the lifts attached thereto. L, 1s the lower, and M, the upper, plate; the lower plate has a neck z', z', upon it which is received into a hole in the upper plate. The neck z', has four holes drilled into it to receive the end of a screw y', which is tapped through the stud, or piece, is, cast on to the upper plate for that purpose. Instead of the screw j, a spur Z, may be used. ,//The lifts of leather m, m, m, are attached to the plates, either by nailing, or by sewing through the holes represented as surrounding the rims of the plates 12, 13, 111, &c. The revolving part of the heel is attached to the foot of t-he boot in the following manner. N, is a common wood screw, the head of which is received in a countersink in the lower plate; and said screw passing through the neck z', and being made fast by screwing into the heel of the boot above the'upper plate, t-he attachment is completed; the four holes in the neck z', z', which receive the end of the screw j, or the spur 0, will admit of the heel being turned around into four different positions. Sometimes a single plate only is used, to which the lower lifts are attached. The circular metal plat-es I usually make of brass, and when the wearer objects to the appearance of their edges, they may be bedded in, and covered by, the leather. Into the excavation n, made in the lifts to admit the head of the screw j, I put a piece of tallow before fastening on the top piece.

Having thus, fully described the nature of my respective improvements in the apparatus for, and in the manner of, manufacturing boots, .what I claim therein as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. The particular manner of forming and arranging the blocking-out pattern, so as to adapt it to the respective sizes required in boot-s of one seam.

2. I claim the manner of forming the shifting pattern, so as to adapt Ythe same to the cutting of the various sizes of such boots after the leather has been crimped.

JAMES TURNBULL.

IVitnesses Trios. P. JoNns, EDWIN L. BRUNDAGE. 

